First pulled apart the engine, removed the standard cams, and cleaned up the new ones and installed them.
Lubed all lobes and then torqued them down to spec.
With the cams now installed i went and checked all the shim clearances, and they all were within standard spec.
Now to time them up.
This was the lengthy part..
Trying to get my head around how to time them up, with mixed messages on how to do it.
To start things off i made a DIY degree wheel and bolted that up to the main pulley, and with a positive stop (extended spark plug) found TDC.
To do this you put the engine at TDC from the pulley marks, bolt up the degree wheel with a wire pointing at 0.
Then turn it away from tdc and put in the positive stop. Here we then turn the engine one way and see where it stops on the degree wheel, then turn the engine the other way and these 2 readings should be the same..
Once you have accurately found TDC you turn the engine to find full lift of the inlet valve, you then need to put a dial gauge on the valve and turn the engine backwards so the valve starts to close and the dial gauge moves 2 or 3mm, now turn the engine in normal direction of rotation and stop when the valve is 1.5mm from full open, at this point read the degree wheel and write down the reading.
Now turn the engine past full lift of the valve to the point where the dial gauge reads 1.5mm again, read the degree wheel and write down the reading.
Add the two numbers together and then divide by two , this will give you the lobe centre line.
e.g.
first reading 90
second reading 120
total 210
centre line 105
I then made adjustments on the cam gear and re checked using the same method.
Once i had the write setting which was 102 as per the cam card, i then did the same procedure on the exhaust to get 108 as per the cam card..
Now with the cams all dialed in i can focus on trying to get the fueling right.
They have definitly made a difference, with a more aggressive power in mid range, and crazy up top.!!
