Guard tidy-up

Time had come to tidy up the cut out vent in the front guard.
Since we now have a mig welder it makes life a lot easier.!!

I went and welded some pieces in the inside of the guard, along with some mesh.
Then went over it with some filler on the outside, let it dry and then went over it with some paint.
(Paint is not the best, but will be sanded back and painted properly sometime...)

Cam Degreeing.

After mucking around with some Software called Engine Analyser Pro, which gives you the ability to simulate engines and all the parts that go with them.
I had been experimenting with different cam settings, and found that both cams at 100 degrees gave quite a large increase in torque down low.
So i decided to give it a crack, with a degree wheel on the crank and a dial gauge on the cams i was away..

The exhaust cam went good, got it to sit at 100 degrees, but the intake cam is a different story.
Because of the pistons im running and the head being planed etc, it doesn't allow the cam to be at 100 degrees without hitting the piston, so had to go back to around 110..

But even this made a increase, the torque is so much more responsive down low and it definitely wants to peel the tyres.
Lets just say in the wet its a bit of animal for traction... ** FWD-Madness **

Dyno day..

So the day came to get the Rolla (and Gary's Gti-R) on the Dyno.
First up was the Pulsar, with a few gremlins popping up it took a while to get some runs down, but what ended up being a sticky fuel pressure regulator was fixed and the tuning continued.

After that it was the Rollas turn..
With a brief look over the fuelling, we moved on to the ignition map, and with the knock block on we could tell that it was pinking at spots, so ignition was removed and some final power runs were made..
With a final power output of 92kw atw & 132nm of torque.

4AGE 16v Bigport Power

Water/Meth Injection - V2 Improvements...

So some Fog Nozzles came in the mail today.

Found these on Ebay here.

Although they weren't a perfect fit form my setup. They do require quite a bit of pressure to create a mist, so i pulled them down and took out the small spring that was requireing so much pressure.

This allowed the water/meth to enter the nozzle and then pass through and come out as a mist.
With this setup i feel alot happier to use it, as with the first one the water/meth could be contaminated and the nozzle/injector wasnt really up to the task.

DYNO sheets will tell if it helps, so bring on Saturday.!!!

Water/Meth Injection - V2

Version 2 of the Water and Meth injection system.

So i wasn't too happy with the current system.
For one the tank wasn't capped and it was getting dust, etc in it, and also where the tank was located it was blocking air flow to the intake :/

And also with that i wasn't to sure if the injector was going to last, as having water going through it, it could rust out and get stuck.
So i went on the hunt for a spray/mist nozzle. (i could find them overseas, but here not so much)
I found a few different bits and pieces laying around, so decided to give them a go.

But first off i had to find a better location for the tank and pump..
What i ended up doing was sticking the pump into the washer bottle..
Drilled some holes on the side for the pipe and wires.
Also went and ran the wires from the other side over to this side.

(And it also turns out that using the 50/50 water & meth on the windows is probably not a bad thing, as alot of washer fluids that you buy for cold weather have a percentage of methanol in them..)

As for the different nozzle, i firstly tried a garden sparyer. This worked but created to much spray, and it definitely wasn't a mist..

And i also had the injector injecting into the intake pipe, i had a suspicion that it wasn't actually travelling all the way into the engine.
So i decided to stick it into the back of the air box instead. (this then injects straight into the intake trumpets)

The second nozzle was a random one that was laying around in the shed. (I have no idea what its from) but it works quite well. It sprays a nice mist out of a tinny hole..

So from there i pieced it all back together, and connected up the nozzle to the pump with some hose and clamps.
Now to actually try it on the Road and DYNO..

E85.. Tuned & Running

Monday's here, and the tank is emptied of 98.
So i went and filled the tank with the 20L of E85.

I then went and added around 30% more fuel into the 2nd fuel table, and added some more ignition timing into the 2nd ignition table.
Ran the car for a while on idle to clear out the 98 that was in the fuel rail, and then took it for a drive.!
(I had to make a few more adjustments to the fuel table to get it right, but got it pretty good in the end)

As for the AFR i set it like this.

*If you're using a wideband that is calibrated for gasoline(14.7:1) and cannot change the calibration of the wideband, take your gasoline AFR and divide it by 1.5 to get actual e85 AFR or use the wideband in lambda mode. 1 lambda is 9.8:1
Here are some common AFR conversions(Gas AFR on left, e85 on right):

18.0:1=12.000
17.5:1=11.666
17.0:1=11.333
16.5:1=11.000
16.0:1=10.666
15.5:1=10.333
15.0:1=10.000
14.5:1=9.666
14.0:1=9.333
13.5:1=9.000
13.0:1=8.666
12.5:1=8.333
12.0:1=8.000
11.5:1=7.666
11.0:1=7.333

Of course, all engines are different and there is still a lot of trial and error when tuning any setup. Having the ability to measure torque output is a must for tuning both fuel and ignition timing with E85. We are only talking about E85's fuel properties in this thread and not taking into consideration ignition timing, boost pressures, different E85 fuel mixtures..etc. Care must be taken when combining all the aspects of the tune and setup, to assure proper limits and safety.

E85.. Corn Juice

Well here it is, all the way from Hamilton, a 20L jerry can full of E85 Ethanol.!
Cheers to my mate for supplying it :D

Now to empty the tank of 98 and fill it up with e85, then up the tune by 30% to cadre for the extra fuel needed, and then see what difference it makes.!!
Should be interesting.!

A New home.

Well a few weekends back the old engine out of my car made its way down to Wellington in the passenger seat of the rolla.
To be put back in another Fx that decided to throw a rod out of bed.
A Friday night and Saturday latter and it was all up and running.
With a few hiccups along the way in form of electrical plugs that were different (as it was originally a smallport converted to a bigport)
But after a bit of wire changing it was all up and running.!

Water/Meth Injection..

YES Water/Meth Injection..       (Updated with more Photos)

What is that you ask...
Easy version: Spraying a 50/50 mix of water and methanol into the intake before the engine as a fine mist helps with cooling the charge thus making more power..

More details here.!
http://www.turbomirage.com/water.html
On this site theres enough info to make a good kit, but i went My style and did a more DIY...

I ended up using an old Fuel pump and Cold-Start injector.
Made up a reservoir and mounted it all in.
Wired up the pump and injector to the ecu, which can trigger it at a given rpm, temperature, tps, etc.

As for the Photos they are taken on a Phone late at night.../
Will get some better pics up sometime.!

Do check out the Forum at FWDMadness.com, create an account and start sharing your ideas, How-To's etc.!!
http://fwdmadness.com/forums/

Leakage pt:3

New Pistons, Rings, & Gaskets.

This time around i sourced some Blacktop 20v pistons.
These are a 11CR and should bump up the compression to around 12.2:1
So i borrowed a Flex hone tool from the Machinist and gave the bore a quick hone, and then took the rings and gapped them in the bore to make sure they had the correct gap.
Once that was done i went and installed them in and put the engine back together.

She is now running, and running well i might add.!
I had to tweak the tune a little to cadre for the compression increase but apart from that all is the same.!

And along with that i also went and installed a button and wired it up to the ECU to switch to the second fuel and ignition tables that the ECU has.
This is for when i can get my hands on some E85 and do a Tune.!
(It will allow me to flick the switch and change tunes to cadre for normal 98 Gasoline and E85 fuel.

Leakage pt:2

So today was pull-apart time, took the Gearbox off, head off and piston out.
Found piston had some cracks, which when out became pieces of piston...

Seal was popped way out due to extra crank case pressure..

Bore looks to be in good nic still, with no scratches which is good.!

So just a matter of new pistons and rings, a quick hone and wack it all back together....