Leakage pt:3

New Pistons, Rings, & Gaskets.

This time around i sourced some Blacktop 20v pistons.
These are a 11CR and should bump up the compression to around 12.2:1
So i borrowed a Flex hone tool from the Machinist and gave the bore a quick hone, and then took the rings and gapped them in the bore to make sure they had the correct gap.
Once that was done i went and installed them in and put the engine back together.

She is now running, and running well i might add.!
I had to tweak the tune a little to cadre for the compression increase but apart from that all is the same.!

And along with that i also went and installed a button and wired it up to the ECU to switch to the second fuel and ignition tables that the ECU has.
This is for when i can get my hands on some E85 and do a Tune.!
(It will allow me to flick the switch and change tunes to cadre for normal 98 Gasoline and E85 fuel.

Leakage pt:2

So today was pull-apart time, took the Gearbox off, head off and piston out.
Found piston had some cracks, which when out became pieces of piston...

Seal was popped way out due to extra crank case pressure..

Bore looks to be in good nic still, with no scratches which is good.!

So just a matter of new pistons and rings, a quick hone and wack it all back together....

Leakage..

So a quick trip up to Tauranga ended up being a bit lengthy.
The Rolla decided to pop the rear main seal and drop a whole lot of oil out..
So home on my Uncles transporter it was..

And after looking over it all, we decided to do a compression test and found that cylinders 2,3,4 were around 250psi BUT no:1 is only around 150psi, so im thinking that was probably the reason for the oil seal popping.
So now to fix the seal and pull the engine apart again.....

Put a Cap on it..

A 3D printed Cap that is...

Because im now running 1NZ individual coil packs the dizzy cap and rotor is not needed.
I could of gone out and bought one online from somewhere, but me being me decided to just make my own.
I drew it up in Solidworks and then got my good Mate to 3D print it for me.
Its made out of ABS so not to sure how long it will last being next to the exhaust, but seems to be good so far.
Now because the cap is alot smaller i went and trimmed down the shield as it stuck out quite far.





As always these are purchasable on my shop on ShapeWays.        BuyNow
These are printed from Nylon Plastic which is alot more heat resistant and will be fine next to the exhaust.!

As always theres different versions of engines, so i have designed different versions of caps, Both for the Bigport Redtop, Smallport Redtop and 20v Silvertop/Blacktop.