Head Work - Port&Polish

Did some porting today, followed a guide here.
http://86atlanta.proboards.com/thread/22

Got some cheap dremel stones, and went to town!!

Need to polish them up and then it'll be ready for the next step..

Head Work - Stage 2

Head has been planed, valves have been cleaned, porting is soon to begin....

Although to get to that stage, a few tools have been purchased..

I got the head planed 1.2mm, so in theory i should be getting a CR of around 11. if not higher.
Which should make the cams perform alot better!

Also with all this happening i thought i would polyurethane the rear engine mount..

Head Work.

So the 'nice and cheap' head is here, looks to be in good nic, with all valves still in-place and no funny marks or gouges anywhere..

New Head bolts have landed too, and i should be receiving some uprated valve springs and Solid lifters/buckets next week.

The plan of attack is to remove all the valves, check them over and see if they need a valve grind or not. If not i will then attempt to port & polish the head myself, taking minimal out of the inlet as its big enough, but trying to take what i can out of the exhaust.
I found a good guide here that im going to follow.!

http://86atlanta.proboards.com/thread/22

Once ive polished it all up, ill stick the valves back in and use some grinding paste to seat them in.
Then install the new springs, and check the bucket clearances.
Then i will get it planned down (to a still undecided amount) and stick it on..

Will keep you posted!!

Gains

So Last Friday saw another dyno run. This time the fueling was sorted with some bigger injectors and the timing was all in order.
We layer down some power runs adjusting a few things in between.
The final run saw a power output of 83kw atw. Or around 103kw at the flywheel.
This is quite a substantial gain from factory of only around 87kw at the flywheel. Even running better power than a smallport redtop. (Which are ment to be better)
And all this is running still on low compression.
So the next step is to get some more compression out of it.

And to do this I scored a head for $20 and plan to do some substantial improvements to including a large head plane, port and polish, and maybe some uprated valve springs.
With this I should then be able to push a few more kw out of it!!
Can't wait!!!!

Upgrades..

So after the recent Dyno run we worked out that it was lacking in fuel up top, so i decided to try out some bigger injectors off a small port.

From 200cc to 250cc.

To do this i just removed the resistor pack, and bridged the connectors, so it can run high impedence injectors.

Aswell as that i thought i would create a stiffer front mount after my one broke not that long ago and
is starting to break again.
I bought some Window weld and using the old mount filled it up, just have to let it dry now!

Spotties

After seeing pictures on the net of Fx's with spot/fog lights, i just had to do it.
Its been a while in the making, but finally got hold of some rectangle spotties and decided to cut some holes in my bumper and install them..

Now i just need to get some blue bulbs for them, too suit the head lights.!

DIY Air/Fuel Ratio meter

So while trying to tune the Rolla, i was informed that there is a way to tap into the stock Narrow band 02 sensor and use the readings as a primitive AFR.
I researched how to do this, and found that the Sensor gives out 0.1v - 1v.
I then found a page on how to make a nice bar graph led setup to display the voltage.
I followed this Guide:

http://www.scirocco.org/tech/misc/afgauge/af.html

And found this diagram very helpful.
Now to tune some more!!

Once complete i should be able to read the bar graph like this..

LED 10 - 0.97V - 12.1:1 - Very Rich - Forced induction and nitrous. you might want to be around here. (All LEDs on)
LED 9 - 0.88V - 12.7:1
LED 8 - 0.78V - 13.2:1 
LED 7 - 0.69V - 13.8:1 
LED 6 - 0.59V - 14.4:1 
LED 5 - 0.49V - 14.9:1 - (Stoich- pretty close to 15:1, this is where NA motors should be at) 
LED 4 - 0.39V - 15.4:1 
LED 3 - 0.30V - 16.0:1 
LED 2 - 0.20V - 16.5:1 
LED 1 - 0.10V - 17.1:1 - Lean (The only LED on)

Also the Dyno run on Tuesday was a short one, with the tuner going over with me how to go about tuning it, and sent me on my way to try it first before putting it on the Dyno and spending large with him.. Such a nice chap!!
So once ive got it a little better, and hopefully be able to tell with this AFR ill take it back in and get a proper Dyno run with hopefully a power read out too.!!

Stay Tuned!

Overclock ECU...

Now that the cams were installed i was curious to know if there was a way to increase the limiter or remove it.. And turns out there is..

It has been called "Overclocking the ECU", as it speeds up the processing of the ecu, thus 'overclocking'

So i found some info on it, and decided to give it a go.!
http://www.scribd.com/doc/11629885/Raising-the-Rev-Limiter-on-Your-4EFE-ECU-Mod#scribd
(This is for a 4efe, but same thing applies)

All that is done, is changing the frequency crystal that is inside the ECU.
Standard the ECU has a 4Mhz crystal, and at Jaycar i could only find a 4.4Mhz. (But if a smaller or larger one could be sourced, that could be used too)

Instead of replacing the crystal completely i installed a switch so i can change between them if needed.
And since its dyno day Tuesday, i can actually see if its going to make a difference or not..

Dyno Time!

Thats right, Dyno time!!

Come this Tuesday the Rolla is going in to get tuned and see what sort of power she will make!

Will keep you posted!!

Camed..

So the weekend came along, and the Cams went in..
First pulled apart the engine, removed the standard cams, and cleaned up the new ones and installed them.
Lubed all lobes and then torqued them down to spec.
With the cams now installed i went and checked all the shim clearances, and they all were within standard spec.
Now to time them up.

This was the lengthy part..
Trying to get my head around how to time them up, with mixed messages on how to do it.

To start things off i made a DIY degree wheel and bolted that up to the main pulley, and with a positive stop (extended spark plug) found TDC.

To do this you put the engine at TDC from the pulley marks, bolt up the degree wheel with a wire pointing at 0.
Then turn it away from tdc and put in the positive stop. Here we then turn the engine one way and see where it stops on the degree wheel, then turn the engine the other way and these 2 readings should be the same..

Once you have accurately found TDC you turn the engine to find full lift of the inlet valve, you then need to put a dial gauge on the valve and turn the engine backwards so the valve starts to close and the dial gauge moves 2 or 3mm, now turn the engine in normal direction of rotation and stop when the valve is 1.5mm  from full open, at this point read the degree wheel and write down the reading.

Now turn the engine past full lift of the valve to the point where the dial gauge reads 1.5mm again, read the degree wheel and write down the reading.
Add the two numbers together and then divide by two , this will give you the lobe centre line.

e.g.

first reading 90
second reading 120
total 210
centre line 105

I then made adjustments on the cam gear and re checked using the same method.
Once i had the write setting which was 102 as per the cam card, i then did the same procedure on the exhaust to get 108 as per the cam card..

Now with the cams all dialed in i can focus on trying to get the fueling right.

They have definitly made a difference, with a more aggressive power in mid range, and crazy up top.!!

Did someone say Cams...

So I have gone and sold the link I was trying to get to run, and just going to focus on using the interceptlink for the mean time.
But because the link is now sold I could go and buy some cams.
They are a pair of reground cams with mild lift and duration. So should get a nice power gain from 5k onwards.

I've got all the gear to set them up correctly from a DIY degree wheel to a nice accurate dial gauge.
Also because I have adjustable cam gears tuning them shouldn't be an issue.

Will keep you posted with installation etc!!

Another route..

Well been trying desperately to get the car to run on the Link ecu i have, but with no luck.
Keep getting no spark during cranking, and other funny stuff.

So for the meantime im going with a old link product called a InterceptLink.
This is a piggyback sorta unit that changes the voltage between the map sensor and the ecu, allowing full control of the fuel mixture.
This will allow me to stop the overfueling that's happening because of the ITB's.

ITB's! Stage 5.

Well now that the itbs are all installed, i really wanted to box them up.
This is because driving with open trumpets is not a good idea on my roads, and running individual filters in each trumpet was restricting air flow.

So i got the original black-top box made into a smaller and better fitting unit..

I had to adjust the original gasket to suit..

And chop down the trumpets to fit also..