Maintenance - Power Steering Pump

So the Rolla has had bit of a oil leak from day 1..
And i thought it was now time to tackle it.
I found that it was leaking from the power steering pump, so pulled it out and stripped it down.
The main seal was pretty old and looked like it could do with replacing.

So got a new seal from Toyota, and pieced it all back together.
While the pump was out, i got some depressor and cleaned the area it was leaking which was around and on top of the AC pump.

Also found that the AC pump clutch was looking a bit stuffed, so took that apart, cleaned it all and sanded down the two surfaces and reinstalled. (Now have AC again, as the clutch was slipping before)
Then went and installed the PS pump and connected it all up.

Hopefully will have a cleaner engine bay from now on!!

Bye Bye Cams..

So i sold the cams this week, thought would test the water, and ended up sellling them for good coin still.
For the meantime i have installed the standard cams back in.. And what a interesting feeling. Seems to have gained a lot more torque down low because of the head skim.
But just looses it all around 6k onwards..

So am now looking for replacement cams, looking at some 272, 8.7mm regrinds..

Will see what happens....

3D Printed Trumpets!

So these came in the Mail..
Thanks to a mate and his 3D printer..!

These are just some Prototype Models, in Glow in the Dark material.
One needed to be 'tweaked' a little to fit the box back on.
So a redesign is definitely in the pipeline.!!

Also ended up going with a Brake switch off another ae92 for the launch control.
This worked really well, as there is a bolt hole and everything for it on the clutch pedal.
Bolted that up, mounted a hidden power switch for the Launch control and then moved all the wiring and unit behind the dash.

All tidy again.!

BRING ON TRACK-DAY!!!

DIY - Launch Control

UPDATE:

Ended up changing the switch on the Clutch for a old Brake switch off another ae92.
This went straight into a bolt hole that the clutch pedal has already. Plug & Play.
And then went and tidied up all the wiring and mounted the power switch for the unit in a nice hidden place. (Im not into big flashy buttons/switches everywhere, like to keep it subtle.)


As the title says, its time for DIY - Launch Control.
All launch control is, is a rev limiter set to what ever you want to lauch from.
And to do this i bought a Frequency switch from Jaycar, or one can be made like this website.
https://code.google.com/p/ecureverse/wiki/LaunchControl

But the unit was on special so i decided to go with that.
Frequency Switch - Jaycar

To allow for it to be used as launch control, a switch is needed on the clutch so when depressed it is active, and when your off the clutch it is deactivated. (This is so you can carry on reeving through)




So to do this i had an old pull switch from my motorbike, that i made a bracket to fit under the dash by the clutch pedal.

And then the rest of the unit needs to be wired to the coil negative, as this is the 'frequency' it uses.
And then 12v and a earth.
And then setup the frequency switch to earth out the coil when hitting a certain rpm, this is done by adjusting the pots inside the unit.

Trumpets....?

So this could be happening..
3D printed, and maybe in Glow in the Dark plastic..

Watch this space.!

Donations?

Any of you feeling Generous.?

Wanting to get some bigger cams sometime, but just don't have the funds.
Anyone that donates, I'll write a post thanking you, and get your name up on this page.!
Even a couple bucks would go a long way!

POWER.!!

So Went on the DYNO again Friday afternoon, did a basic run to check the fuelling. Ended up having to bump it up quite abit as it was running lean.
Then came the power run.

1st power run showed more torque that before but similar power..
So i went and changed the cam timing a bit. We advanced the inlet as far as it would go.

2nd power run showed a 5kw increase over the whole bored!

It has a real nice curve to it, with no major dips, so is very responsive.

A total of 90kw at.the.wheel / 111kw at.the.flywheel
Which im pretty happy with!!

But in saying that, im going to rotate the cam a tooth on the cambelt and see if advancing it anymore will give it any more power...!

So stay tuned..!

Details

Just some small details that have been tidied up.
And some more Photos.

Painted Igniter with some nice metallic black paint.

Rim Repairs

After succesfully getting the car up and running, i moved onto some other bits and pieces on the 'list'
First of i decided to not change over the brake pads yet, as there is still a little bit more life left in the ones on the car.
But when taking one of the wheels of to see, i decided to have a look and go at removing some of the nasty curb marks on the rims. (Rim Background: Came of a wrecked starlet, that was flung into multiple curbs)
Used a wire bit on the air tool, and took it right back to alloy, and buffed out the scratch marks. Then ran over it with a file to tidy up some spots, and finally polished it a little with some steel wool.

Came up quite nice, and even kinda like the look of a machined edge..
Eventually i plan to either get them powder coated, or paint them with some plastic dip (rubber paint)

Head Work - All Done.

So this week the cars been parked in the garage since Tuesday, slowly pulling the old head off, and adjusting all the new shim-less buckets to suit the cams.
All parts were ready, so head went on Wednesday night, and Friday I pieced it all back together and got it running...

With now a Compression Ratio of around 11.1:1 its pretty tight.
Sounds smooth, drives smooth and a definite torque increase down low. (Yet to see what its like right up high in the rev range)

Because of the shim-less buckets, its now safe to happily rev 9k-all-day, with no chance of it spitting out the shims (as it would do with shims)

Also with the uprated valve springs there's less chance of coil binding of the springs because of larger lift, and it gives the valve's a stronger close.

Just need to sort out where to set the dizzy, (as because of the head porting and polishing i should be able to advance the timing a little more safely)







So all in all a busy and nice end to the week!!
Chur

Brake replacement.

So the time has come to install some new brake pads, and flush out the old oil.
From when i did the brake upgrade to Twin pots, i installed some Repco Thermo Quite pads, on Brembo rotors.
This has been such a good combination!! for a cheap pad, the TQ's do a great job.
They have seen 2 track-days, (With no fade) and plenty of Kms on the Road.

So i decided to install the same ones when it came time to replacement.

Head Work - Valve springs

So today some Valve springs, and solid lifters, (Shim-less buckets) arrived.
Went and installed them, now just waiting for a few free days when the car isn't needed, and i can install it all.
Enjoy.

Head Work - Valve Lapping

So with the head all ported, and polished i moved onto seating the valves.

This is called Valve Lapping, 

"Valve Lapping is basically sanding down the surface of the Valves (which allow fuel and air to flow in, and exhaust to flow out) and the Head (Holds the Camshafts and valves) where they make contact with each other. This is done by applying a Compound Paste (pretty much just oil and a fine grade of sand) to the edges of the valves and spinning them in their seats on the head."